One of the most important things about IPL hair removal is that it doesn’t work equally well for everyone — and any clinic that tells you otherwise isn’t being honest with you. At Brighton Bodyworks, we’d rather explain the genuine criteria upfront than waste your time or money on a treatment that isn’t right for your skin and hair combination.
Here’s a plain-English guide to who tends to get the best results, who may have more limited outcomes, and what we can offer in each situation.
The Fitzpatrick Scale — What It Means for You
Dermatologists and aesthetic clinicians use the Fitzpatrick scale to classify skin tone, from type I (very fair, always burns, never tans) to type VI (deeply pigmented skin). IPL works by targeting melanin — pigment — in the hair follicle. The challenge is that melanin is also present in your skin, and higher levels of skin melanin can absorb light energy that should be going to the follicle, potentially causing pigmentation changes or burns.
As a general guide:
- Fitzpatrick I-II (very fair to fair skin): Excellent candidates for IPL. Low skin melanin means the energy goes precisely where it’s needed.
- Fitzpatrick III (medium skin, tans easily): Usually good candidates. We set treatment parameters carefully, but results are typically very good.
- Fitzpatrick IV (olive skin): Can be treated, but requires more caution and careful parameter settings. Results can be excellent with the right approach.
- Fitzpatrick V-VI (brown to dark skin): IPL is not recommended. The risk of pigmentation changes is significant. Nd:YAG laser is generally a safer option for these skin tones, and we will always be honest about this and, where appropriate, refer you accordingly.
Hair Colour — The Other Side of the Equation
IPL needs melanin in the hair follicle to work. The more melanin, the more effectively the energy is absorbed and converted to heat that damages the follicle. This means:
- Dark brown to black hair: Ideal. High melanin content means excellent absorption and typically excellent results.
- Medium to dark brown hair: Usually very good. Most clients see significant reduction.
- Light brown hair: Can work, but results may be slower and less complete.
- Blonde hair: Limited effectiveness. Some response is possible if there is sufficient pigment, but results are unpredictable and often disappointing.
- Red hair: Poor results in most cases. Red hair contains a different form of melanin (phaeomelanin) that absorbs IPL energy less effectively.
- Grey or white hair: IPL will not work. There is no melanin in the follicle to target.
We will always be straight with you about this at consultation. If we don’t think IPL will give you the results you’re hoping for, we’d rather tell you honestly than take your money for a treatment with low prospects of success.
The Best-Case Profile
The client who typically sees the best IPL results is someone with naturally fair to olive skin and naturally dark (brown to black) hair. If that describes you, the contrast between skin tone and hair colour is exactly what makes IPL so effective — the energy is attracted to the dark follicle and largely ignored by the lighter skin around it.
Tanning and Temporary Skin Changes
Even if you have naturally fair skin, a recent tan can temporarily make you unsuitable for treatment. A tan — whether natural or from a salon — increases the amount of melanin in your skin, reducing the contrast with the hair follicle and increasing the risk of skin reactions. We ask all clients to avoid sun exposure and tanning products on treatment areas for at least 4 weeks before each session.
If you’re coming in for a consultation during summer and you’ve been in the sun, don’t worry — we can still discuss your suitability and plan, and schedule your treatment once your tan has faded.
Medical and Medication Considerations
Several medical conditions and medications affect your suitability for IPL. These include:
- Active skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or cold sores in the treatment area.
- Certain medications that increase photosensitivity — including some antibiotics, retinoids, and herbal supplements.
- Pregnancy (we do not treat pregnant clients).
- A history of keloid scarring.
- Certain autoimmune conditions.
This is why the consultation exists. We take a full health and medication history at your first appointment, and it’s important you’re as complete as possible in what you tell us. There’s no judgement — just a need for accurate information to keep you safe.
What Happens at Your Consultation?
Your £30 consultation with Amy covers everything mentioned above. We assess your Fitzpatrick skin type, look at the hair colour and density in the area you want to treat, go through your health and medication history, and perform a patch test. The patch test involves treating a small area of skin and monitoring your response over 24-48 hours before we proceed with a full session.
The consultation is a two-way conversation. We want you to feel completely informed and comfortable before you make any decision. The £30 is refunded against your first treatment if you go ahead.
? Ready to get started? Brighton Bodyworks is based in Hassocks, West Sussex, with easy access from Burgess Hill, Haywards Heath, Hurstpierpoint, Ditchling, Lewes and Brighton. Call us on 07881 958093 or book online at www.massagetherapy-brighton.co.uk. Your first consultation and patch test is just £30 — redeemable against your first treatment.